Work-in Progress
I am developing a new collection - finally! The working title is ‘Living Light’, inspired by bioluminescence.
Long story about the concept:
The starting point was an article about how living tissues — including the brain — emit a continuous stream of light. The more energy a tissue burns, the more light it gives off. When we think about bioluminescence, we think mainly about deep sea creatures like the anglerfish. This article however expands on the possibilities about the body’s ability to create light.
At the same time, I had been researching about jellyfish (thanks to David Attenbourg) and I learnt about a particular type of jellyfish called “Moon Jelly”. Moon Jelly is a genus of bioluminescent jellyfish that live in the polyp stage. Also known as aurelia aurita (golden, furnished with ears), referring to the ear-like shape of its gonads that can be seen through its translucent body.
As I dived deeper into this research, I remembered a calligraphic sketch of mine. Honestly, this is just one of the many random doodles that have no story or purpose. But oddly enough, the variation of simple lines, her look of wonder, seemed to tie in with the Moon Jelly picture. Next I brought out an image of an oxidized metal sculpture by a Japanese artist. The glow and color due to oxidization correlated with the concept of light generated through an internal chemical reaction.
Concept and Design Sketches
Developing the designs:
Almost always with every collection comes a print artwork. On one hand, I wanted to create a print that vaguely resembled an abstract lit-up brain or an abstract jellyfish. On the other hand, I wanted something clean, elusive and gentle. After several color-proportion-shape experiments, I landed on this version. I like how the combination of curved and straight lines give an architectural feel, and how the color choice gives it a celebratory glow.
Taking inspiration from the shapes in the concept board, I’ve been developing rounded sleeves, shifting seam lines, manipulated textures.
Draping experiments
Can bridal couture sit with day wear?
I’ve been examining the possibility of creating a bridal collection for some time now. Does it fit in with a collection like this? Should bridal sit with day wear? I am not totally sure if this would eventually be one collection or two. However, still drawing reference from the concept of bioluminescence, these couture pieces will be versatile combinations of satin and organza that layer shine with transparency.
Collection process?
Current stage: Waiting for the print sample to arrive (~ 1 month). Paper patterns and rough prototypes nearly complete. Still refining the designs and the concept.
Next steps: once the print arrives, I will create the design samples for a pre-order sale. Other thoughts: creating a videoshoot (like a runway presentation). Tentative launch: end-March
Other updates:
2026 is off to a busy start! More experimentation, more quality refinement, more collaborations and more attention to a.oei’s loyal customer base. The best feeling to lean in to is: “I’m just going to do it because I love it!”